Knitted Garment

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a knitted garment (1) with three-dimensional textile shaping for body curves (2, 2′, 2″). The aim with this type of knitted garment (1) is to achieve an optimal three-dimensional textile shaping with a large volume, where the knitted fabric neatly fits around even large volumes and visual breaks of the fit of the knitted fabric to the body are avoided. To this end, the three-dimensional textile shaping of the knitted part (5, 6) fitting around the body curve (2, 2′, 2″) or body curves (2, 2′, 2″) is achieved by: increasing, in the region of a body curve (2, 2′, 2″), in the knitted part (5, 6) covering said body curve, the number of stitches on the outer side of the knitted-fabric central piece predetermined on the basis of the body measurements, said increase extending for a plurality of rows of knitting, depending on the curve; then maintaining the number of stitches; and then decreasing the number of stitches, again on the outer side of the predetermined knitted-fabric central piece, wherein the knitting process is continuous without being temporarily interrupted for individual rows of stitches, as is the case when using a gusset technique or wedge-shaping technique.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is the U.S. national stage of International Application No. PCT/EP2019/055162, filed on Mar. 1, 2019. The international application claims the priority of DE 102018106524.8 filed on Mar. 20, 2018; all applications are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety.

BACKGROUND

The invention relates to a knitted garment with three-dimensional textile shaping for body curves, wherein the three-dimensional textile shaping on the knitted part with the body curve or body curves is achieved whereby in the region of a body curve within the knitted part covering this body curve, an increase in stitches takes place according to the curve over a plurality of knitting rows on the outer side of the central piece of the knitted fabric determined previously as a result of the body measurements, then the number of stitches is maintained and then a decrease in stitches, here also on the outer side of the previously determined central piece of the knitted fabric, so that trapezoidal side parts are thereby knitted in, which ensure the three-dimensional shaping, wherein the knitting process is continued continuously without a temporary interruption of the knitting process for individual rows of stitches as in the case of the gusset or wedge-shaping technique, wherein the increases and decreases in stitches take place in superposed positions of the knitting rows so that they extend along two or four lines which run in the direction of the highest point or highest region of the body curve.

Knitted garments when usually manufactured are sewn together from front part, back part and sleeve parts, which are each knitted separately in the corresponding size and shape. In the case of jackets, two front parts replace the front part. However, instead of front and back parts, it is also possible to produce a round knitted part to which the sleeve parts can be attached if desired. Regardless of these design possibilities, an adaptability of the knitted part to body curves is only possible to a limited extent. In the case of pronounced body curves such as large breasts, in particular silicone breasts, stomachs, in particular during pregnancy or pronounced posteriors, which are covered with knitted garments, for example, this adaptation of the knitted part is no longer possible. Specifically when a knitted garment should fit tightly, this then results in a tensioning and distortion of the knitted material so that, for example, on an upper part the neck section and the sleeve attachment no longer fit correctly and folds form or the item of clothing is distorted. The knitted material is then stretched thinly over the breast area and can thereby become transparent. Below the breast on the other hand, the knitted material no longer lies flat but hangs loosely down in the stomach and hip region. In particular women with silicone breasts which are disproportionate in relation to the slim body, do not wish to wear clothing which they must purchase one to two sizes too big because of the breast but close-fitting knitted garments without the aforesaid undesired effects to come into full effect.

From the knitting instructions for “PASSAP abc” hand knitting machines made by Passap, it is known from the first chapter—foreword to the front part—to solve this problem with large breasts by knitting the front part longer in pullovers and providing with two darts towards the outside at breast height. In the case of thin materials, the material is then triple on the inner side. For thick materials V-shaped recesses are knitted in this region. The two sides of the V-shaped recesses are then joined together by darts so that a pullover or another knitted garment has a three-dimensional textile shaping.

The disadvantage of this measure is that the knitted material is not completely adapted since the region of the darts is thicker, stiffer and less flexible. In addition, the seams are relatively clearly visible, the production thereof requires an additional work step and usually the textile profile at the seam point is significantly interrupted.

Furthermore, the gusset or wedge-shaping technique is known from knitting socks or from DE 39 37 406 A1 and DE 10 2015 115 228 B3 in which increases or decreases in stitches are made for knitting a gusset or wedge shape. In this case however, after completion of the gusset or wedge shape, the stitches are temporarily stopped on needles in order to then knit on a knitted part that has been knitted in the meantime (which can also be a gusset or wedge shape) and thereby achieve a spatial offset of the knitted parts, such as for example at the heel of a sock.

The disadvantage of the gusset or wedge-shaping technique is that a larger volume cannot be knitted. However, this is required, for example, for breasts, a stomach, in particular pregnancy stomach, or posterior. In the gusset or wedge shaping technique, this results in clear traces when knitting on and at the end of the joining together, pointy bulges can be formed in the knitted fabric.

Known from U.S. Pat. No. 3,101,111 A is a knitting technique for a body curve in which four rows of increases and decreases in stitches take place before the body curve region at four points of a knitting row and the knitting rows located thereabove, which result in an annular pattern surrounding the body curve and a rhomboid covering the body curve. This does not result in any knitting-in of side parts but a completely different result from that mentioned initially.

It is known from WO 2013/030257 A2 to make a double parallel row of stitches with increases and decreases in stitches run over the body curves. This certainly results in a certain three-dimensional textile shaping which, however, is relatively small. By this means it is not possible to create as much space as by trapezoidally knitted-in side parts so that this textile shaping is not suitable for pronounced body curves.

Known from FR 986 562 A is a knitted garment of the type mentioned initially in which, however, increases and decreases in stitches are made in directly successive knitting rows. This results in lines with many large holes between the stitches, which does not look attractive. In addition, a high tensile force on the threads is produced in this region so that these tear under high loading or when worn for a fairly long time.

SUMMARY

It is therefore the object of the invention to achieve an optimal large-volume three-dimensional textile shaping in which the knitted fabric also adapts cleanly to large volumes and visual interruptions of the fit of the knitted fabric to the body are avoided, wherein the lines formed should be less noticeable with fewer holes between the stitches and the tensile force of the threads should be reduced.

The object is solved according to the invention whereby the increases and decreases in stitches are not made in directly successive knitting rows.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

The advantage of such a knitting method is that an optimal adaptation to the body shape is possible. The material is the same thickness everywhere, is equally flexible and fits optimally to the body. The increases and decreases in stitches always take place on the outer side of the previously determined (calculated or determined by trial and error) central piece of the knitted fabric and always on the same side (on the same needle or stitch). The increase and decrease in stitches can be adapted according to the respective body shape to simulate the same even with large volumes such as breasts, posterior or stomach exactly and without interruptions of the fit to the body shape. Unlike the gusset or wedge shaping technique, this does not result in any significant knitting-on traces, traces of holes or pointy bulges.

Since the increases or decreases in stitches are not performed in directly successive knitting rows, the forming lines are less noticeable and holes are formed to a lesser extent between the stitches. In addition, the tensile force on the threads is reduced as a result so that the risk of a thread tear under high loading is lower. In how many rows of knitting the increases and decreases in stitches are made depends on how large the bulge of the material must be for the corresponding body shape. For a large bulge which is probably required in most cases, an increase and decrease in stitches in every other row of knitting is required. As a result, the increase and decrease in stitches in the knitted fabric is visually less noticeable and the risk of a thread tear is lower.

For example, the front part is initially knitted like a normal pullover but below the breast, laterally from the edge of the central piece of the knitted fabric, stitches are increased in a straight line upwards in every other row, as a result a sloping line is obtained visually in the finished pullover, even when the lines actually run vertically. When the desired length is achieved, each stitch in each row is then knitted normally over the entire width of the front part, i.e. without increasing or decreasing. When the desired height is reached, laterally from the edge of the central piece of the knitted fabric, stitches then begin to be decreased in a straight line upwards in the desired length, also in every other row, in order to then stop above the breast, laterally of the armhole seam, thus forming the second visually sloping line in the finished pullover. The last-mentioned position is crucial for the fit, i.e. how the pullover or the dress sits on armhole and breast and adapts to the body. For the “knitting” construction the combination of the positioning of the initial and end points of the lines is crucial. On this matter dimensional ranges are proposed further below.

The same principle can be applied to dresses, skirts and trousers when a three-dimensional volume for the posterior is knitted in the back part or, for example, in pregnancy clothing, for the stomach.

The knitting technique according to the invention can be implemented for all sizes of knitted garments—as well as adapted to different breast sizes—and can optionally even be implemented individually. The increases and decreases in stitches are visually not noticeable or barely noticeable and the disturbance of the textile profile is small. Since this knitting method of a knitting machine can be programmed in, the work step of producing darts is also omitted. Compared with the gusset or wedge shaping technique, no temporary interruption of the knitting process needs to take place so that manufacture is simplified.

It is provided that the increases and decreases in stitches take place in superposed positions (in each case on the same needle) of the knitting rows so that they extend along two or four lines according to the body curve(s) distributed over the knitted part. As a result of such line formations, the impairment of the texture is far less than if the increases and decreases in the stitches were carried out in an offset manner. If these lines are visible—this depends on the yarn condition, the stitch size and the yarn thickness—these are incorporated in the image of the item of clothing and can even give this a particular characteristic.

In order to achieve an optimal adaptation to the body shape, it is provided that the two or four lines run in the direction of the highest point or highest region of the body curve.

Expedient embodiments and further developments of the invention are explained hereinafter.

The main area of application of the invention should be a knitted garment for women with three-dimensional textile shaping of the front part (for pullovers or knitted dresses) or the front parts (for jackets) for the breast. Specifically in the case of silicone breasts, the close fit and a perfect visual image of the item of clothing is particularly desired. This textile shaping can also be used in dresses, skirts and trousers (in the back part for the posterior).

In a three-dimensional textile shaping for the breasts, the line profile of the increase and decrease in stitches is preferably in such a manner that in each case two lines for the body curve of each breast run from below or from above in the direction of the highest points of the breasts. In the finished pullover, the lines look as if they were sloping, in fact the lines lie vertically above one another. The visually sloping line profile is obtained as a result of the increase and decrease in stitches described above.

The expedient ranges of dimensions for the breast area already mentioned above are specified in subclaim 6 and in the description of the drawings. All common sizes come within these ranges.

In three-dimensional designs for posterior or stomach, it is provided that on both sides of the body curve in each case two lines for the body curves run visually obliquely downwards from outside top and visually obliquely upwards from outside bottom in the direction of the highest region of the body curve. In fact, the lines lie vertically above one another.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The invention is explained hereinafter with reference to exemplary embodiments shown in the drawing. In the figures:

FIG. 1 shows a pullover viewed obliquely from the front,

FIG. 2 shows a section from FIG. 1,

FIG. 3 shows a knitted dress in side view,

FIG. 4 shows the knitted dress in front view and

FIG. 5 shows the knitted dress in rear view.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

FIG. 1 shows as knitted garment 1 a pullover in a three-quarters view, i.e. obliquely from the front. As a result of this view, the breast 2′ can be seen on the right side as body curve 2, wherein this is drawn such that it corresponds to the shaping when wearing the pullover. The lines 3 for the increase and decrease in stitches always run on the outer side of a previously determined (calculated or determined by trial and error) central piece of the knitted fabric. This central piece is located in FIG. 4 between the lines 3, 3″ of the right side and the lines 3, 3″ of the left side, correspondingly in FIG. 5 between the lines 3. The increase and decrease in stitches always takes place at the same position (on the same needle or stitch). The lines of the right side are concealed in FIG. 1. On the left side the breast 2′ is only indicated by its highest point 4 to which the lines 3 of the increase and decrease in stitches are directed. Here this comprises an upper line 3′ which stops at or, as indicated, in the vicinity of the seam 10 of the sleeve 7, preferably about 1 cm away, and runs to just before the highest point 4 of the breast 2′. The lower line 3′ also points to the highest point 4 of the breast 2′ and runs visually when observing the pullover obliquely outwards and down in the direction of the seam 9 between front part 5 and rear part 6 of the pullover. The course of these lines 3 comes about due to the increase and decrease in stitches of the knitting construction according to the invention. This knitting construction can be envisaged such that in a substantially straight region of the front part of the pullover, trapezoidal side parts which provide for the three-dimensional shaping are knitted in. A three-dimensional trapezoidal shape/trapezoidal prism is knitted in. In this case, the pullover naturally does not have a trapezoidal shape in the breast region when wearing but as a result of the flexibility and slinkiness of the knitted fabric, it lies clingingly on the breast and adapts to this. Also indicated is the highest shoulder point 8 which is crucial for the placement of the shaping. Dimensions for the shaping are given with reference to the description to FIG. 2.

FIG. 2 shows a section from FIG. 1 in order to indicate expedient dimensions in the breast area of the front part 5—or the front parts in the case of jackets. The dimensions relate to the finished knitted garment since the dimensions of a knitted fabric vary when it is removed from the knitting machine, sewn together and usually washed. When the knitted garment is put on, as a result of an adaptation to the body, this naturally again results in a variation.

The dimensions preferably lie within the following ranges:

The dimension 11 from the highest shoulder point 8 as far as the height line on which the upper breast line 3′ stops, which begins about 1 cm from the seam 10 for the sleeve 7, between 14 and 18 cm,

dimension 12 of the length of the upper breast line 3′ between 5 and 20 cm,

dimension 13 of the length of the lower breast line 3″ between 5 and 20 cm,

dimension 14 of the distance between the ends of the upper 3′ and the lower breast line 3″ in the region near the highest point 4 of the breast 2′ between 1 and 10 cm,

dimension 15 of the distance between the lines 3′ and 3″ at the ends thereof remote from the breast 2 between 10 and 30 cm and

dimension 16 of the lower end of the lower breast line 3″ to the seam 9 between front part 5 and rear part 6 between 2 and 8 cm.

The following table gives as an example dimensions for different clothing sizes of pullovers and bra sizes, where tolerance deviations of ±1 cm should be assumed. The fact that smaller clothing sizes tend to be given as examples here results from the fact that persons with silicone breasts tend to have smaller clothing sizes:

Clothing size/bra cup size XXS-H XS-D/E XS-F/G XS-H S-H Dimension 16 cm 16 cm 16 cm 16 cm 16 cm 11 Dimension 10.5 cm 6.5 cm 8.5 cm 10.5 cm 10.5 cm 12 Dimension 9 cm 5 cm 7 cm 9 cm 9 cm 13 Dimension 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 14 Dimension 22 cm 22 cm 22 cm 22 cm 22 cm 15 Dimension 6 cm 6 cm 6 cm 6 cm 6 cm 16

FIG. 3 shows a knitted garment 1 which is designed as a knitted dress. In this case, the upper region corresponds to the pullover already described, wherein for simplicity of the diagram the dress has no sleeves. The knitted parts 5 and 6 of the front part 5 and the rear part 6 are longer than in the pullover according to the length of the dress. However, in corresponding styling to the pullover, the three-dimensional shaping for the breast 2′ is the same and the shaping for the posterior 2″ is performed in a comparable manner. In this case however, there are four lines 3 of the increase and decrease in stitches of which only two are visible on account of the side view in the diagram.

FIG. 4 shows the knitted dress in front view, wherein here also apart from the length of the knitted dress everything corresponds to that such as has already been described for the pullover.

FIG. 5 shows the knitted dress in rear view, wherein here the course of the lines 3 of the increase and decrease in stitches is apparent which in each case in the finished dress when viewed visually from outside, are directed onto the region of the highest point. This region has a corresponding width according to the body shape.

The explanations are naturally only exemplary, a knitted garment can also be adapted in a corresponding manner to a stomach region, for example, a pregnancy stomach.

The textile shaping according to the invention for body curves could naturally also be used for other areas, for example, in a dress which is made using the circular knitting method for the waist and hip region. In this regard therefore various variations of the invention are feasible, wherein the crucial features is that the third dimension of a three-dimensional trapezoidal shape/trapezoidal prism can be incorporated within a specific knitted part.

LIST OF REFERENCE NUMERALS

1 Knitted garment

2 Body curves

2′ Breast

2″ Posterior

3 Lines of increase and decrease in stitches

3′ Upper breast line

3″ Lower breast line

4 Highest point or highest region of body curve

5 Knitted part: front part

6 Knitted part: rear part

7 Sleeve

8 Highest shoulder point

9 Front and rear part seam

10 Sleeve seam

11 Dimension from highest shoulder point to height line on which the upper breast line begins

12 Length dimension of 3′

13 Length dimension of 3″

14 Dimension of distance 3′ and 3″ on the body curve 2

15 Dimension of distance 3′ and 3″ away from the body curve

16 Dimension of the lower end of 3″ to the seam 9 

1. Knitted garment (1) with three-dimensional textile shaping for body curves (2, 2′, 2″), wherein the three-dimensional textile shaping on the knitted part (5, 6) with the body curve (2, 2′, 2″) or body curves (2, 2′, 2″) is achieved whereby in the region of a body curve (2, 2′, 2″) within the knitted part (5, 6) covering this body curve, an increase in stitches takes place according to the curve over a plurality of knitting rows on the outer side of the central piece of the knitted fabric determined previously as a result of the body measurements, then the number of stitches is maintained and then a decrease in stitches, here also on the outer side of the previously determined central piece of the knitted fabric, so that as a result trapezoidal side parts are knitted in which ensure the three-dimensional shaping, wherein the knitting process is continued continuously without a temporary interruption of the knitting process for individual rows of stitches as in the case of the gusset or wedge-shaping technique, wherein the increases and decreases in stitches take place in superposed positions of the knitting rows so that they extend along two or four lines (3) which run in the direction of the highest point or highest region (4) of the body curve (2, 2′, 2″), characterized in that the increases and decreases in stitches are not made in directly successive knitting rows.
 2. Knitted garment according to claim 1, characterized in that the increases and decreases in stitches are performed in every other knitting row.
 3. Knitted garment according to claim 1, characterized in that this is a knitted garment with three-dimensional textile shaping of the front part (5) or the front parts for the breasts (2′).
 4. Knitted garment according to claim 3, characterized in that in each case two lines (3′, 3″) for the body curve (2) of each breast (2′) run from below or from above in the direction of the highest points (4) of the breasts (2′).
 5. Knitted garment according to claim 4, characterized in that in the breast region of the front part (5) or the front parts of the finished knitted garment, the dimensions lie within the following ranges: dimension (11) from the highest shoulder point (8) as far as the height line on which the upper breast line (3′) stops, which begins about 1 cm from the seam (10) for the sleeve (7), between 14 and 18 cm, dimension (12) of the length of the upper breast line (3′) between 5 and 20 cm, dimension (13) of the length of the lower breast line (3″) between 5 and 20 cm, dimension (14) of the distance between the ends of the upper (3′) and the lower breast line (3″) in the region near the highest point (4) of the breast (2′) between 1 and 10 cm, dimension (15) of the distance between the lines (3′ and 3″) at the ends thereof remote from the breast (2) between 10 and 30 cm and dimension (16) of the lower end of the lower breast line (3″) to the seam (9) between front part (5) and rear part (6) between 2 and 8 cm.
 6. Knitted garment according to claim 1, characterized in that on both sides of the body curve (2) in each case two lines (3) for the body curves (2) such as posterior (2″) or stomach run upwards and downwards in the direction of the highest region (4) of the body curve (2, 2″). 